Banff
August 2024
Quick summary: We drove up from Missoula, Montana to Glacier National Park (via West Glacier). After a couple of days in GNP, we drove up into Canada, passing through British Columbia as we headed to Banff.
Tips: Book hotels early (6-9 months out), plan on shuttles to popular locations (Lake Louise), make reservations if there’s a restaurant you really want to go to in Banff.
Itinerary:
- Day 1: Drive from Montana – Radium Springs & explore downtown Banff
- Day 2: Lake Louise, Mirror Lake, Lake Agnes
- Day 3: Johnson Lake & pool day at the hotel
- Day 4: Yoho National Park (Takakkaw Falls & Emerald Lake) & Field, BC
- Day 5: Bow River Falls, Fairmont Banff Springs, Cascade of Time Gardens
- Day 6: Fly home – the adventure we didn’t expect
Banff, Alberta, Canada
Where we stayed
We stayed at a Marriott property called Moxy Banff. I had Marriott points to use so we stayed here. It had a cute “up north” feel with a nice bar, lounge area, including an arcade game, with a lovely pool/hot tub deck. I’d definitely stay here again. It was about .8 miles from downtown. That was my only complaint. We walked to and from each day. It was fine, but there were a few lodges closer to downtown that also looked nice. If you want to check out those, look up the Fox, the Caribou, or the Aster.
Where we ate
We did some grocery shopping at the IGA and usually ate breakfast in our room. Lunches were also a mix of eating out and packing our own sandwiches.
- Park Distillery: We’re both gin fans so this was an easy choice. We ordered their Apline Gin & Tonic, the Mountaineer Margarita, Rotisserie Chicken Caesar Salad, Seared Salmon Summit Salad. The margarita was the best margarita I’ve ever had. There is a Banff Cocktail Trail that was made in partnership with Jolene’s Tea House. If you like margaritas, it’s a must have. If you are a gin fan, we recommend grabbing a bottle of their Alpine Gin!
- 3 Bears Brewery & Restaurant: Since I wanted to continue the Banff Cocktail Trail, we went to Three Bears for a Cucumber Gin Smash. We stayed for dinner and had Three Bears Salad, Mean Mr. Mushroom with Elk Sausage Pizza. We sat at the bar and had a lot of fun with the bartenders. We loved this chill place!
- Brazen: I love small plates! We had the Summer Salad, prawn stuffed mushroom caps, smoked beef tartar, roasted carrots, and bison. I enjoyed a nice glass of Canadian wine while Sean enjoyed a local pilsner.
- Truffle Pigs: After exploring Yoho National Park, we stopped in Field for lunch. I had the chicken curry & Sean had the cobb salad. My curry was warming and delicious. Sean’s cobb salad was unique and equally delicious. This was a fun stop. The staff were friendly and welcoming, even though they were quite busy. Don’t forget to stop downstairs in the shop to find something with their logo on it!
- Lupo: We continued the Banff Cocktail Trail with a drink at Lupo. We had the Sicilian 75. We didn’t stay for dinner but it’s a popular spot. Looks like really great Italian so if that’s your jam, check it out.
- Bluebird: We wanted a “fancy” meal and we found that at Bluebird. We continued the Banff Bourbon Trail with the Meadow Mint. We enjoyed tuna crudo, beef ribs with a side caesar salad, steak with cheesy mashed potatoes. We had room for dessert so we shared a piece of keylime pie. It was amazing.
- Wild Flour Bakery: I stopped for coffee and a quick breakfast before a massage. All of the pastries looked great. I grabbed a ham and cheese croissant.
- Aardvark Pizza & Sub: We grabbed subs for lunch before our hike around Banff. SO darn good!
Banff, Alberta, Canada
What we did
We mostly wanted to hike and see the beautiful, natural wonders of Banff – the stunning lakes, either crystal clear or vibrant turquoise, the thick forests that smell just like Christmas, and the breathtaking mountains. We do have a favorite mountain… Mt. Rundle. You get a great view from downtown. If you go and love it too, send us a note!
- Radium Springs: On our way to Banff from Montana, we stopped at Radium Springs. I knew there were hot springs in Banff, I was worried they’d be very busy and we’d have a hard time getting in. So we stopped at Radium Springs and I’m so glad we did! It wasn’t what I expected. It looks like a big pool. There were two big pools. One with lanes that was more of a traditional pool. It was still like 80 degrees so, not cold. The warmer, hot tub style pool was probably closer to 98-100 Fahrenheit. They also had a small cold pool so you could cool down when needed. It was such a relaxing spot. If you’re up for the 90 minute drive from Banff, you can make a day of it by exploring the Park and ending in the warm springs. You won’t regret it!
- Lake Louise – We took a shuttle to Lake Louise. From there, we hiked up to Mirror Lake & and Lake Agnes. Please note, you will likely need a shuttle to get to Lake Louise. There is very little parking and it’s a bit of a zoo. Don’t try to drive in. You’ll be disappointed. Just take the shuttle.
- Yoho National Park: We woke early to head into Yoho National Park. You will need to either stop at the visitor center to purchase a pass or order online, $11/person. We drove back to Takakkaw Falls first and then headed to Emerald Lake
- Johnson Lake: we were told by a local that this is a local favorite. That if we wanted a relaxing day by the water, with water warm enough to actually go in, this was a great choice. There was also plenty of hiking around Johnson Lake. However, we wanted to read our books and relax. We took a couple of pool towels from the hotel, had a picnic lunch from IGA, and laid by the lake. Sean thought the water was a little chilly for swimming, so we came back to the hotel. The pool deck was lovely so we relaxed there with some drinks and our books. Not everyday has to be hard work. We love to have a chill day where we relax and recover from all of the hiking.
- Cedar and Sage: On our last day, I felt like a massage. I booked online and I’m so glad I did. It’s a beautiful space, very peaceful and relaxing. The therapist was really talented and gave me stronger pressure massage. If you need a relaxing day, check them out. They also offer yoga classes!
- The last day, we walked around downtown, ate lunch, then did a hike around Bow River up to Bow River Falls. There is a great overlook of the falls and of the Fairmont. From there, we hiked past and found a trail that brought us back towards downtown and the river. We crossed on a pedestrian bridge to check out the Cascade of Time Gardens. If you like flowers or gardens, check it out. It was stunning, so many beautiful flowers.
- Shopping! There are many cute shops to get some Banff souvenirs or just some fun shopping in boutiques. No matter which you’re looking for, you’ll find it. We found some things to be quite pricey and others to be a bargain. Either way, you’ll find what you’re looking for!
Things I WISH we would have had done!
While you’re on your trip or after, you reflect on the things you didn’t know about and/or wish you’d have had more time to do. Here are a few of ours and hopefully some day, we’ll get back to Banff and be able to check them off our list.
- Stayed at a lodge in one of the national parks, like Emerald Lake Lodge in Yoho National Park. I think the experience of staying in a lodge like this would be an amazing experience. We don’t camp so this would be as close as we can get.
- Visited the Columbia Icefields. There was a devastating forest fire in Jasper this year and the road was closed at a certain point. The drive is two hours from Banff so we didn’t want to drive all the way if we wouldn’t be able to get into the ice fields. We WILL be doing this next time.
- Rent a canoe on Lake Louise or Emerald Lake. We didn’t feel like we had time and the lines were long. But if you have the time and patience, I think it would be a beautiful paddle. It is a bit expensive as well, but likely a wonderful memory.
- Guided tour to the Burgess Shale fossil fields in Yoho National Park. There are several options, but the one I was most excited about was 11 hour excursion with hike up to the fossil fields. The fossils are unique because in shale, soft tissue is fossilized so you see internal organs. I wish we’d have had time to do this!
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Where we stayed
We stayed in what will likely forever be my favorite Marriott property! The Dorian is decorated and based off of Oscar Wilde’s Picture of Dorian Gray. There was a fun QR code that allowed you to confess a secret to which you’d either see a young or old portrait of Dorian. The room decor felt rich and lavish with ornate furniture and beautiful wall paper. If you’re going to Calgary – STAY HERE!
What we ate
We ate in the hotel. I know. Boring. We’d had a big day exploring Banff and we were pretty tired. This felt like an easy way to end our trip. We went up to The Wilde on 27, one of the restaurants in the Dorian. We lucked out with outdoor seating overlooking the city. We hit the golden hour so it was a beautiful view. We shared some small plates and I enjoyed wine made especially for the hotel. It was a full bodied red called… you guessed it, The Dorian.
The trip home was a 60 hour adventure. We ended up stranded in NYC after several flights were canceled out of JFK due to weather. We sat on the tarmac for 3 hours, only to be brought back to our gate. After 2 hours in line, we were told we’d not get out for two days. We spent the night at a Courtyard Marriott in mid-town and the next morning, were set on getting home. I found an Amtrak train that took us from Penn Station to Union Station in Chicago where we’d switch trains to end at the General Mitchell Airport in Milwaukee. I was able to get a us a private room (thank the gods) so the journey wasn’t so bad. We’ve never taken a train that distance, had dinner in a dinner car, and although it was a long journey, we made the best of it. Have to roll with it when you’re out there adventuring! All that to say, as much as we loved our Amtrak porter, we don’t hope to travel that way again soon!
Cheers!
Sean & Jamie
